date fix
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@@ -30,79 +30,79 @@ You could also buy a board without this resistor, buy the resistors separately,
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First you need to remove the earpad on the side where the micro USB port is. You just need to pull on it gently.
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### 2: remove cover
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Once the earpad is removed you'll see a plastic cover, you need to remove all the screws holding it in place.
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I managed to easily remove all the screws using a size 1 Phillips bit.
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Once all the screws are removed you can remove the plastic cover, just be careful not to tear off the small wires.
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### 3: replace micro USB board with the new USB C board
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You first need the remove the glue or whatever this semi transparent thing is on the board with the micro USB port and unclip the board from where it's lodged.
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As you can see this PCB is pretty well labelled, You need to desolder the GND, D+, D- and 5V wires. I used a BC2 tip and with a bit of patience it was fairly easy.
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Then you need to solder the wires to the corresponding pins on your USB C board.
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I kept the micro USB board on the side in the headset since it doesn't just include the charging feature.
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Then comes the tedious part. The hole for a micro USB is smaller than for a USB C port. You'll need to use a file to widen the hole until the USB C fits perfectly. I used my dremel first and then a file to be more precise at the end. Just remember that it's easier to remove plastic than add plastic. So I recommend to remove some plastic then check to see if it fits and then repeat if it doesn't.
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I didn't do the cleanest job, but there was also scratches from before, from when I was trying to plug in the micro USB cable with the headset on my head.
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I then used glue to keep the USB C port in place and electrical tape to keep things in place and avoid any short circuit.
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It can also be at this point a smart thing to see if the charging led on old the micro USB board turn on when plugging in your headset as well as checking if your computer detects it. If it charges but is not detected by your computer, you might have swapped the data lines (D+ and D-).
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### 4: put everything back in place
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Now it's time to put the cover with the screws back in place. Then for the earpad, I recommend gently pushing in the stretchy polyurethane part around the earpad with a small piece of cardboard, plastic or even a bank card. But be careful not to tear or puncture it so avoid metal tools or sharp things.
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Then you finally have a corsair void pro wireless headset with a USB C port!
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## note on the screws
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If you also wanted to replace the Phillips screws with other screws, let's say with a torx head so it's less prone to stripping. I have bad news, they seem to use weird screws. They look like 7mm long M2 screws:
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However standard M2 screw have a 0.4mm pitch (with the ISO standard), here they seem to have a pitch of about 1mm so not following anything standard. If anyone knows whether this corresponds to any standard I’m not aware of, please feel free to send me an email. But my guess is it's just proprietary screws to hinder repairs, which is funny since they labelled the PCBs properly.
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## note on the earpads and top cushioning
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