new blog post + typo fix
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@@ -12,7 +12,7 @@ In this blog post I'll describe how I (mostly) 3d printed a numpad (21 keys keyb
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I designed the parts with [openscad](https://openscad.org/), the repository is available [here](https://git.hadow.fr/sam.hadow/keyboard_scad).
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I used the script `keycaps_numpad.sh` and the openscad script `xda_keycap.scad` to generate the stl files for the keycaps with an engraving on the side for each keycap. Then generated the stl files for the backplate and case with the files `backplate_numpad.scad` and `case_numpad.scad`.
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I then printed them with my bambulab P1S 3d printer, I use a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.08mm layer height. I used white PETG filament to print all the parts. All the parts took about 12 hours to print.
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I then printed them with my bambulab P1S 3d printer, I used a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.08mm layer height. I used white PETG filament to print all the parts. All the parts took about 12 hours to print.
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Here is the result for the 3d printed parts:
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_posts/2026-03-31-3d-printed-and-handwired-60%-keyboard.md
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_posts/2026-03-31-3d-printed-and-handwired-60%-keyboard.md
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---
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layout: post
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author: Sam Hadow
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tags: 3dprinting hardware soldering
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---
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I'll describe in this short blog post how I 3d printed (not including the keycaps this time) a 60% keyboard (61 keys). Then hanwired it, and installed a firmware with ZMK on it. It is similar to the [numpad](/blog/3d-printed-and-handwired-numpad.html), just a bigger project. Read the numpad post first if you want more detailed instructions on how to handwire a keyboard.
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# steps
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## 3d printing parts
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Just like for the numpad I designed the parts with [openscad](https://openscad.org/), the parts and bash scripts are in the same repository [here](https://git.hadow.fr/sam.hadow/keyboard_scad).
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The script `keyboard60.sh` can be used to generate the stl files for the backplate and case. They're both cut in half to make them fit on my 3d printer plate.
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If you want to 3d print the keycaps, there is a script too. But I personally used keycaps I already had on the side instead, mostly to see the letters better on the keycaps. The side engraving on my 3d printed keycaps is not that visible.
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I printed the parts with my bambulab P1S 3d printer, I used a 0.4mm nozzle and a 0.16mm layer height, white PETG filament as the material.
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I used T8000 glue to glue the parts.
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The backplate looks like this before gluing the two halves:
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With the switches mounted (I used MMD holy panda switches this time too):
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## handwiring the keyboard
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Just like with the numpad we first need to bend the diodes so that it's easier to solder them to the switches. I then soldered the rows with the legs of the diodes and cut the extra length after the anode.
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The keyboard is handwired columns to rows, so the diodes are soldered with the anodes soldered to the switches pins (the red part here). I used 1N4148 diodes as they're very cheap.
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And then after a few hours of soldering, and gluing the two haves together:
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(I also mounted the stabilizers, this time I used cheap plated mounted stabilizers.)
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I used yellow and green wires alternating them between the columns to have an easier time soldering them to the microcontroller and writing the firmware after. I also used a pen to mark where to strip the wire to solder it to the pins. It was more convenient than just using my thumb to hold the wire where I have to strip it.
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And this time too I used a Pro Micro NRF52840.
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## flashing the firmware
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I used ZMK to flash the firmware, you can find the ZMK configuration in [this repository](https://git.hadow.fr/sam.hadow/zmk-config) and [this one](https://github.com/Sam-Hadow/zmk-config) for github action to automate the build process. This keyboard is named `keeb60_3d`. Like in the previous blog post, I recommand flashing the firmware before clipping the backplate in the case as you might have to reset the microcontroller to flash a fixed firmware.
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## assembling the keyboard
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I glued the two halves of the keyboard, taped the battery on the side of the case, soldered it to the microcontroller and the power switch of the keyboard.
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Like last time the switch is a 15mm round switch like [this](https://aliexpress.com/item/1005009714438836.html) one. And the battery is a 3.7V LiPo battery with a 320mAh capacity (for the bluetooth).
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I then glued the microcontroller in its holder, clipped in the backplate to the holder and mounted the keycaps.
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# final result
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The keyboard:
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The power switch and USB C port in the back:
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